Chile - Deserts and VolcanoesShort version of our travel report Chile 1994(C) Hartmut Bielefeldt 1994
We spend our vacation '94 in the last corner of the world - el último rincón del mundo. While it is slowly becoming colder and darker at home, in Chile we can enjoy the spring and interesting mountains. After a 20-hour flight we arrive in Santiago, the smoggy capital. Five million people are living here, out of only 13 million total inhabitants of Chile. Not astonishing that one hardly finds any larger village on the journey to the north. The 22-hour bus trip to Calama, an oasis in the Atacama desert, is cheap and very comfortable. The landscape is impressive due to an unbelievable monotony - 400 kilometers with no trees, no people, even no grass. Above 3000 m altitude we find vegetation again: first cactuses, then the hard Puna grass, which one shouldn't mix up with the small cushion-shaped cactuses. And of course we find here, between Llamas and Guanacos, also nice mountain characters like the schoolbook volcano Licancábur (5916 m). When climbing it, it appears more as a horrible heap of scree, since the mountains are free of snow up to above 6000 m in this region. Nevertheless mountaineering is quite interesing in this environment; sometimes one can "make" a 5000m peak from the road as a half-day trip.
Next station: Santiago and the Andes chain behind the city. Here we encounter almost winterly conditions. So no thought about one of the 5000 or 6000 meter peaks here. But the scenery is nice, it's completely quiet - a six thousand meter peak just two hours away from the city is something we'd like to have at home, too. Change of scene to the south. That's relative, as Chile is 5000 km long, and the southernmost 2000 km consist of isolated islands and stormy Patagonia which is worth a separate vacation (if there once were good weather). We restrict ourselves to the continental part stretching thousand kilometers to the south from Santiago. The moutains here are by far not as high as those further north, mostly 2500 to 3000 meters. But heigh isn't all: It's a beautiful experience to climb one of these marvellously formed volcano cones which is covered with good firm snow, welcoming us on the top with lots of gas clowds escaping from the ground. One just has to take care not to step into one of the holes in the snow opened by the hot gas, they are dangerous as glacier crevasses. The landscape mainly consists of many single volcano cones standing around, appearing very strange to us Europeans. Down again, it looks almost like at home: cows on green meadow, but the volcanoes in the background don't fit into the Bavarian impression at all.
© Hartmut Bielefeldt 1997 (english version)
Remarks: We (as a two person team) organized this trip completely on our own, on a very short-term basis. It would be a pleasure for us to give you hints to plan your own trip; possibly also the WWW links might be useful. Email:Hartmut Bielefeldt
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