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Augsburg Expedition

Deutsche Version

Route description

• From the drivers' base camp, the access to the base camp follows the left (east) side of the valley of Gyabrag glacier, mostly on a moraine terrace. After crossing several side valleys, on the second day the ice lake (5500 m) is reached where possibly base camp can be established in case there is no space in the upper camp (as it was the case in 1997).
• Another two hours' walk leads to the normal base camp (Tichy camp) at 5700 m.
• From the base camp, a glacier walk leads to the exit of a side valley which then is followed to a less steep area where an intermediate camp ("Z") can be established.
• The "killer slope" steeply leads 400 m up to camp 1, 6450 m. It is named due to its very negative impact on the mountaineers' motivation, and not by any real danger.
• From camp 1 to camp 2, the route follows the snowy crest to the bottom of the serac belt. With the help of fixed rope, the 50 m high barrier is passed, and a little above there is a plateau (camp 2, 6900 m).
• The slopes get steeper afterwards, and after a traverse to the left the next little plateau is reached (camp 3, 7350 m).
• Summit day: after a glacier traverse to the right, a mixed rock / snow area is passed including one steep passage (yellow band, normally there are fixed ropes). The slope is gradually decreasing and changes to the summit plateau. The highest point can hardly be determined, but the view of Everest is said to be superb.

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Augsburg Expedition

Deutsche Version

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Last updated March 30, 1999 by Hartmut Bielefeldt