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4000 m peaks of the Alps
What is a summit, what is not ? There are about as many criteria as people climbing those peaks. It becomes especially "important" when it comes to the 4000 m peaks of the Alps - are there 60 or 80 of them?
The main criterion for being a summit is the height by which it is separated from its neighbours. Hundred meters clearly make up a summit, but also 30 m were mentioned as "valid".
Correspondingly, there are different lists of the 4000 m peaks, established by different persons. In the following list I will mention the list by Karl Blodig ("B",[1] - the first person having climbed all 4000 m peaks in the Alps [at least those matching his criteria]), Richard Goedeke ("G",[2]), the "official" list of UIAA ("U",[3]) and my own count ("H", which basically is derived from [1] and [2]).
| Mountain | Height | Diffi- culty | Lists | gap height | Area | Was Hartmut already there? |
| B | G | U | H |
1 | Les Droites
| 4000 | D | × | × | × | × | 204 | Mont Blanc
| 2001 |
2 | Aiguille de Rochefort
| 4001 | C | × | × | × | × | 106 | Mont Blanc
| 1994 |
3 | Lagginhorn
| 4010 | B | × | × | × | × | 511 | VS Weissmies
| 1990 2002 |
4 | Dent du Géant
| 4013 | E | × | × | × | × | 139 | Mont Blanc
| 2003 |
5 | Punta Baretti
| 4013 | B | × | × | × | × | 56 | Mont Blanc
| |
6 | Dôme de Rochefort
| 4015 | C | × | × | × | × | 190 | Mont Blanc
| 1994 |
7 | Dôme de Neige des Ecrins
| 4015 | B | - | - | × | - | 41 | Ecrins
| 1991 |
8 | Weissmies
| 4023 | B | × | × | × | × | 1188 | VS Weissmies
| 1984 1985 1987 1989 1991 |
9 | Hinter Fiescherhorn
| 4025 | B | × | × | × | × | 102 | Bern
| 1991 |
10 | Allalinhorn
| 4027 | A | × | × | × | × | 245 | VS Mischabel
| 1985 1995 1998 2000 1998 |
11 | Dürrenhorn
| 4035 | B | × | × | × | × | 119 | VS Mischabel
| 2000 |
12 | Aiguille du Jardin
| 4035 | E | × | × | × | × | 37 | Mont Blanc
| |
13 | Lauteraarhorn
| 4042 | C | × | × | × | × | 128 | Bern
| 2001 |
14 | Gross Grünhorn
| 4044 | B | × | × | × | × | 305 | Bern
| 1997 |
15 | Punta Elena (Grandes Jorasses)
| 4045 | | - | - | × | - | 10 | Mont Blanc
| |
16 | Punta Giordani
| 4046 | B | × | - | × | × | 5 | VS Monte Rosa
| 2001 |
17 | Piz Bernina
| 4049 | C | × | × | × | × | 2132 | Bernina
| 1994 2000 |
18 | Gross Fiescherhorn
| 4049 | B | × | × | × | × | 395 | Bern
| 1991 |
19 | Aiguille de Bionnassay
| 4052 | C | × | × | × | × | 164 | Mont Blanc
| 1990 |
20 | Gran Paradiso
| 4061 | B | × | × | × | × | 1873 | Gran Paradiso
| 1986 1990 1992 2007 |
21 | Obergabelhorn
| 4063 | D | × | × | × | × | 536 | VS Weisshorn
| 1997 |
22 | Corne du Diable (Aig. du Diable)
| 4064 | | - | - | × | - | 19 | Mont Blanc
| |
23 | Punta Margherita (Grandes Jorasses)
| 4065 | | - | - | × | - | 50 | Mont Blanc
| |
24 | Mont Brouillard
| 4069 | B | × | × | × | × | 39 | Mont Blanc
| |
25 | Pointe Chaubert (Aig. du Diable)
| 4074 | | - | - | × | - | 57 | Mont Blanc
| |
26 | Roccia Nera (Breithorn)
| 4075 | | - | - | × | - | 30 | VS Lyskamm
| |
27 | Schreckhorn
| 4078 | D | × | × | × | × | 785 | Bern
| |
28 | Pollux
| 4092 | C | × | × | × | × | 247 | VS Lyskamm
| 2001 |
29 | Pointe Médiane (Aig. du Diable)
| 4097 | | - | - | × | - | 40 | Mont Blanc
| |
30 | Barre des Ecrins
| 4102 | C | × | × | × | × | 2044 | Ecrins
| |
31 | Grande Rocheuse
| 4102 | D | × | × | × | × | 52 | Mont Blanc
| |
32 | Breithornzwillinge Ost
| 4106 | | - | - | × | - | 36 | VS Lyskamm
| |
33 | Mönch
| 4107 | B | × | × | × | × | 578 | Bern
| 1992 1993 |
34 | Pointe Carmen (Aig. du Diable)
| 4109 | | - | - | × | - | 55 | Mont Blanc
| |
35 | Pointe Croz (Grandes Jorasses)
| 4110 | | - | - | × | - | 10 | Mont Blanc
| |
36 | Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey
| 4112 | E | × | × | × | × | 178 | Mont Blanc
| |
37 | L'Isolée (Aig. du Diable)
| 4114 | | - | - | × | - | 36 | Mont Blanc
| |
38 | Aiguille Verte
| 4122 | D | × | × | × | × | 688 | Mont Blanc
| 1996 |
39 | Breithornzwillinge West
| 4141 | | - | - | × | - | 119 | VS Lyskamm
| |
40 | Grand Combin de Tsessette
| 4141 | | - | - | × | - | 51 | VS Gd.Combin
| |
41 | Bishorn
| 4153 | A | × | × | × | × | 95 | VS Weisshorn
| 1989 1990 1992 2001 |
42 | Jungfrau
| 4158 | B | × | × | × | × | 683 | Bern
| 1993 |
43 | Breithorn Zentral
| 4159 | | - | - | × | - | 83 | VS Lyskamm
| |
44 | Breithorn
| 4164 | A | × | × | × | × | 433 | VS Lyskamm
| 2001 |
45 | Dent d'Hérens
| 4171 | C | × | × | × | × | 692 | VS Matterhorn
| 2000 |
46 | Grand Combin de Valsorey
| 4184 | | - | - | × | - | 52 | VS Gd.Combin
| 1999 |
47 | Pointe Whymper
| 4184 | | - | - | × | - | 51 | Mont Blanc
| |
48 | Strahlhorn
| 4190 | B | × | × | × | × | 401 | VS Mischabel
| 1985 1986 1996 1999 |
49 | Aletschhorn
| 4195 | B | × | × | × | × | 1017 | Bern
| 1988 1989 |
50 | Rimpfischhorn
| 4199 | C | × | × | × | × | 635 | VS Mischabel
| 1986a 1987 1994 1996a |
51 | Alphubel
| 4206 | B | × | × | × | × | 355 | VS Mischabel
| 1987 1989 1992 1993 1993 2004 2006 |
52 | Grandes Jorasses
| 4208 | C | × | × | × | × | 843 | Mont Blanc
| 2001 |
53 | Piramide Vincent
| 4215 | A | × | × | × | × | 128 | VS Monte Rosa
| 1988 1989 1991 1993 |
54 | Hohberghorn
| 4219 | B | × | × | × | × | 77 | VS Mischabel
| 1996 |
55 | Zinalrothorn
| 4221 | D | × | × | × | × | 490 | VS Weisshorn
| 1990 |
56 | Castor
| 4228 | B | × | × | × | × | 165 | VS Lyskamm
| 1989 |
57 | Stecknadelhorn
| 4241 | C | × | × | × | × | 23 | VS Mischabel
| 2000 |
58 | Grand Pilier d'Angle
| 4243 | | - | - | × | - | 3 | Mont Blanc
| |
59 | Mont Blanc du Tacul
| 4248 | B | × | × | × | × | 213 | Mont Blanc
| 1991 |
60 | Finsteraarhorn
| 4274 | C | × | × | × | × | 2270 | Bern
| 1997 |
61 | Lenzspitze
| 4294 | D | × | × | × | × | 81 | VS Mischabel
| 1985 |
62 | Dôme du Goûter
| 4304 | A | - | - | × | × | 54 | Mont Blanc
| 1988 1989 1990 |
63 | Grand Combin de Grafeneire
| 4314 | C | × | × | × | × | 1517 | VS Gd.Combin
| 1999 |
64 | Schwarzhorn
| 4321 | B | × | × | × | × | 42 | VS Monte Rosa
| 1987 1989 |
65 | Nadelhorn
| 4327 | B | × | × | × | × | 206 | VS Mischabel
| 1985 1990 1997 2000 |
66 | Ludwigshöhe
| 4341 | A | × | × | × | × | 58 | VS Monte Rosa
| 1987 1989 1993 |
67 | Dent Blanche
| 4357 | D | × | × | × | × | 910 | VS Weisshorn
| 1998 |
68 | Parrotspitze
| 4432 | B | × | × | × | × | 136 | VS Monte Rosa
| 1987 1991 |
69 | Pico Luigi Amedeo
| 4460 | | - | - | × | - | 40 | Mont Blanc
| |
70 | Mont Maudit
| 4465 | B | × | × | × | × | 162 | Mont Blanc
| 1991 |
71 | Matterhorn
| 4478 | D | × | × | × | × | 1031 | VS Matterhorn
| 1996 |
72 | Lyskamm West
| 4479 | | - | - | × | - | 82 | VS Lyskamm
| |
73 | Täschhorn
| 4491 | D | × | × | × | × | 209 | VS Mischabel
| 2000a |
74 | Weisshorn
| 4505 | D | × | × | × | × | 1234 | VS Weisshorn
| 1990 |
75 | Lyskamm
| 4527 | C | × | × | × | × | 376 | VS Lyskamm
| 1991 |
76 | Dom
| 4545 | B | × | × | × | × | 1046 | VS Mischabel
| 1990 1995 |
77 | Signalkuppe
| 4554 | B | × | × | × | × | 102 | VS Monte Rosa
| 1988 1991 |
78 | Zumsteinspitze
| 4563 | B | × | × | × | × | 111 | VS Monte Rosa
| 1988 1991 |
79 | Nordend
| 4609 | B | × | × | × | × | 94 | VS Monte Rosa
| 1990a |
80 | Dufourspitze
| 4634 | C | × | × | × | × | 2165 | VS Monte Rosa
| 1989 |
81 | Mont Blanc de Courmayeur
| 4748 | | - | - | × | - | 7 | Mont Blanc
| |
82 | Mont Blanc
| 4810 | B | × | × | × | × | 4800 | Mont Blanc
| 1988 1989 1990 1993 1995 2003 |
In case of the ascents marked by a, we did not completely reach the main summit.
[1] Karl Blodig, Helmut Dumler, "Die Viertausender der Alpen", Bergverlag Rudolf Rother
[2] Richard Goedeke, "4000er - die Normalwege", Verlag J. Berg
[3] Die Alpen 70, S.14 (Jan. 1994): This list was compiled by Gino Buscaini (CAI), François Labande (CAF), and Maurice Brandt (SAC). It is based on a topographic criterion of 30 height meters and additional subjective criteria (morphologic and alpinistic). Therefore Mont Blanc de Courmayeur is included because it is (as the authors state) morphologically and alpinistically independent, as also all five summits of Grandes Jorasses. All summits of Breithorns fulfil the topographic criterion (except Roccia Nera, however fulfilling the two other conditions).
I personally adhere to the old Blodig/Goedeke list. I must admit, however, that Punta Giordani, Dôme du Goûter and Balmenhorn are really a matter of personal taste.
Difficulties given in the table above:
(The five categories A to E are my personal grading scheme, not a "standard")
A | relatively easy (F to PD) |
B | moderate (PD) |
C | moderate to difficult (PD to AD) |
D | rather difficult (AD) |
E | difficult (D) |
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