Originally we had the Bishorn in our program, but due to job constrictions we had to replace this three-day trip by something shorter. So the announcement is changed to Piz Palü.
The route from Boval hut is less suited than from Diavolezza, because the latter one has about equal height differences for the two days, about 1000 meters each. Finally we have to drive back home on Sunday, and therefore 1500 meters or co could be a bit much in September.
On Saturday afternoon, we are welcomed by extraordinarily bad weather at the Diavolezza valley cable car station. Permanent rain and only some degrees above zero, that makes it easy to replace the four-hour ascent to Diavolezza (that of course would have been much better for acclimatization) by the "degenerate version" for SFr 18 per person.
In the afternoon there's quite a lot of time left, good to intensely practice crevasse rescue again.
Next morning doesn't bring the announced weather improvement. The traverse on the path to Fuorcla Trovat is a little slippery due to the snow that fell during the night, but afterwards on the flat glacier portion there's no problem. At 3300 m, at the upper edge of the first glacier step, traffic jams occur.
Some groups prefer the right, others the left side. The left variant turns out to be the best, but also there we find some meters of steep ice to be climbed, and some deep holes to avoid. After that, thing become easier again. Altitude makes itself felt, but the weather noticeably improves now. We even can see our destination.
3300 m - our destination appears in the clouds.
At quarter to ten (four hours after departure at Diavolezza) we reach the saddle at the summit crest. From here on we follow the steep, slightly exposed snowy crest to the east summit (3882 m ) without further difficulty. That takes half an hour.
Some minutes before reaching the summit
View downwards from the summit crest.
Like all the other groups, too, we are satisfied with this summit for today. To reach the main summit, quite a bit of trailbreaking through knee-deep snow would be necessary, and nobody really is keen on that. Those twenty meters of height difference aren't that important.
Having appreciated the excellent outlook, soon we begin the descent; the snow becomes wet and sticks to the crampons. The steep portion with the difficulties costs time in the descent, too, so we need two hours from the saddle to the end of the glacier; from there another hour to Diavolezza.
On our way back through the crevasses.
Piz Palü seen from Diavolezza
Rest at Diavolezza.
There we have an extensive rest with a splendid view to the summit which we visited just a couple of hours ago. 1 1/4 hours from Diavolezza to the valley station (through mostly quite boring ski piste area), and we are back to our cars.
05:35 Diavolezza (2974) 06:15 - 06:30 Fuorcla Trovat (2980) 08:35 - 08:40 Vadret Pers (3350) 09:45 - 10:00 Sattel bei P.3731 (3730) 10:30 - 10:50 Piz Palü Ostgipfel (3882) 11:20 - 11:30 Sattel bei P.3731 (3730) 13:30 - 13:35 Fuorcla Trovat (3350) 14:30 - 15:35 Diavolezza (2974) 16:50 Talstation Diavolezza (2085)
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Last changed August 09, 2002 by Hartmut Bielefeldt